Month: April 2016

Chapter Six: Barcelona

~ Julie M. ~ 5 Comments

What can I say about Barcelona? I loved every second of it, from my fantastic hosts to the delicious two bite pintxos to the vibrant and artistic streets. Two days was tight but wonderful nonetheless and I managed to find a good balance between relaxing and taking it all in. And as balance is the current theme for my yogic training, I think that is perfectly suited.

I had arranged to stay with a friend of a friend in Barcelona. When my host (whom I’d never met) not only insisted on picking me up at the train station but also decided to take the same flight out to Mallorca two days later, offering to take me to the airport, as well as come along and take me to my ashram (he has friends here), I was starting to worry that this was too good to be true. But as soon as I met Jesus, and his boyfriend Christophe, I realized all of my doubts were unnecessary as they turned out to be two of the most genuine and kind people I have come across.

Jesus took me around the city, from the über-hip Raval neighborhood, to the park de la cuitadella, arc de triomphe and the beach. On my own I decided my trip would be incomplete without a visit to the Sagrada Familia church. I had been many moons ago but the development that had taken place over the last twelve years was truly astonishing. Needless to say, I was glad I went, despite the blisters on my feet.

I popped into the Moritz brewery (for cultural reasons) and tried one of the finest gourmet donuts I’ve had (pine flavoured. Yes, you read that correctly). And my visit was topped off with a trip the the Carrer Blai street which is virtually filled with small pintxos bars and locals spilling out from them onto the cobblestones. Pintxos are similar to tapas but they sit atop a small piece of bread. They can be anything from goats cheese and prosciutto to prawns to chorizo spread and peppers. All were amazing! At the end you count up the toothpicks on your plate and are charged according to the number you arrive at.

All in all, it was a perfect two days before the start of a three week lesson in austerity (with the occasional contraband coffee).

Barcelona, I love you. Pintxos and culture below.
❤

 

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Chapter Five: Carcassonne

~ Julie M. ~ 1 Comment

I am on my final day of my three weeks in France. I don’t even want to guess the amount of croissants I have had in this time, though, miraculously, I feel I am in better shape than when I arrived. Walking around all day and generally eating/drinking less overall have agreed with me.
Yesterday I arrived at my final French destination: Carcassonne. I went straight to my accommodations for the evening, which was a hostel. Having only stayed in airbnbs so far, I thought I might finally have a more social night and meet some people… only to find that I am the only one staying there at the moment. I must say, it was nice. The place to myself, with a little fireplace, kitchen and DVD player.
The location of this hostel is exactly what I had hoped to see when I planned my time in France. In the village of Preixan, just outside of Carcassonne, it is right in the countryside, and absolutely breathtaking. I feel like this stop alone has made the trip worthwhile. Photo below.
Today was rainy but I grabbed my umbrella and headed out to see the medieval city and castle. Now I am just drying my wet feet off with some wine in a little cafe.
After this is two days in Barcelona and then off to yoga teacher training in Mallorca. I have heard that internet use will be kept to a minimum so I will likely write again in early May, when I am finished.
Another update: I have decided to spend the first two weeks in May doing the Camino de Santiago de Compostela (a.k.a. St. James Way). This is an old pilgrimage route that starts essentially anywhere and ends in Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain. It is becoming more and more popular in recent years, not just as a religious trek but as a tourist attraction as well. Just before leaving, I watched the movie The Way, which is about the camino. When we realized short days later that Jasper would not be joining me in May, I decided that this would be my new plan. I will walk the last part, from Sarria to the end, approx 115 km. And I will begin shortly after I complete my yoga training (with a day or two by a pool & beach in between, to energize). Wish me luck!
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Chapter Four: Arles & Montpellier

~ Julie M. ~ Leave a comment

 

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After Marseille was an overnight in Arles where there are really two things to do: See the roman ruins (especially the arena, the focal point of the city) and hone Van Gogh by seeking out the inspirations for some of his most famous works. I did both, and would estimate that a day is sufficient to cover the town. I did find a cozy little dock on the river outside of the city which made for an excellent resting spot.
On to Montpellier, which, despite the fact that it rained almost nonstop, was beautiful. And so, so clean, which was a welcome change after Marseille. I met up with a friend of a friend for some drinks, tapas and a wet but lovely tour of some of the city’s gems. Of the three days I spent there, two were touring the centre and one I spent doing absolutely nothing. It was raining heavily, I had the apartment I rented to myself, some tea and chocolate and an English movie channel on a cozy couch and I planted myself there for the full day. It was bliss. I didn’t realize how tiring touring would be and how much I needed a low key ‘me’ day. On my last day I partook in a language exchange at a local bar, which was a lot of fun. And I think I may have even made some progress in my time here!
❤

Chapter Three: Aix-en-Provence & Marseille

~ Julie M. ~ Leave a comment

I was lucky enough to have my friend Amanda come to visit for four days. We spent the first two in aix-en-provence (aix for short) and the beautiful countryside. Despite the sketchiest (and most expensive) airbnb I’ve yet seen, we had an amazing time. The country is beautiful, the hills are rolling, the vineyards are plentiful and the lavender is lush, though not yet purple. On day three, we hiked the Calonques, just outside of Marseille, and visited the tourist trap town of cassis. The Calonques are like fjords with inlet beaches and incredibly beautiful (photos below).
Our final day together was rainy and we strolled around the old port of Marseille and enjoyed some free movies, chocolates and company at our boutique hotel.
After that, I was on my own again. I spent a few days in Marseille though ended up cutting it a day short. Despite being beautiful and incredibly interesting, Marseille is a very dirty town and unpleasant to visit alone as a female, due to many aggressive men. Where have all the women gone?? That was my general impression the moment I strayed from the waterfront area. That said, I did enjoy a large French metropolis that was so different in every way than Paris. I would go back, but not alone. (Waterfront and Marseille highlights below).
❤

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Chapter Two: Avignon

~ Julie M. ~ 1 Comment

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I arrived in Avignon after a somewhat tumultuous stay in Nimes. (It was getting dark and rainy by the time I arrived at my “hotel” only to find reception closed and myself without a room key. It was my first night solo and let’s just say I got in eventually but slept with the lights on.) Suffice it to say that by the time I got to Avignon to find a pleasant, clean and SAFE airbnb, it was a major relief.

I made the decision some weeks back to put this time to good use and enrolled in a Yoga Teacher Training course, which takes place the last three weeks in April, in Mallorca (a.k.a. Majorca, a.k.a. Ibiza’s next door neighbor in the sunny Mediterranean). Three weeks of learning, stretching, eating healthy meals and meditating with a beautiful backdrop feels like exactly what my soul needs. And who knows, it might come in handy on my travels.

Back to Avignon; I spent the week meandering, reading and studying for my yoga course (we have way too many muscles and joints) and sleeping in, which was bliss. A week was the right amount of time needed to decompress and deal with being very aware of my ‘aloneness’ on this leg of the trip. Not to say that I am lonely, although I certainly have my moments, but I do feel a profound awareness at all times that it is just me here. As my friend Lisa said, you don’t travel alone to run away, you travel alone to be confronted with yourself. I think it’s true and I think it’s also a very important thing to do, especially at a major crossroads in your life.

So Avignon was not epic, nor was it meant to be. I walked the whole of the city, twice. I ate plenty of beautiful pastries (justified by the walking, of course), I discovered what came to be my ‘regular’ cafes, I spoke a lot of French, and I relaxed. Had I been in a bigger hurry, I could have covered it in a day trip. But for me, it was just right.

I will adjust these photos whenever I next have access to a laptop (which might be some time) but in the meantime, please find below some of the beautiful sights of the small, walled-in city.

The famous Pont D’Avignon (if you don’t know the song, give it a listen), numerous churches and architectural feats, the palais des papes.

And of course, the gorgeous pastries (including an authentic croissant from Chez Sylvain – which, I’m told, is the best and am inclined to agree).

This most adorable little cafe is called Ginette et Marcel and is known for its Tartins, which is basically an open-faced sandwich. But it’s French… so it’s better:

❤